Feeling Joy by Working with Animals

July 15th, 2009

There is nothing like unconditional love. Although it is possible to receive this gift from another human, it is more likely you will experience the feeling from an animal. When animals were domesticated, force was put upon them to rely on human beings. The very sad part that makes an animal lover weep is that many humans fail to recognize this and are not kind and thoughtful of loving animals.

A need for people to learn about and work with animals is very high. Pairing this with the huge amount of humans that need to feel useful and loved creates a win-win situation. Variations of how one can help is wide, supplying jobs abundant in rewards and are suitable for anyone that loves these glorious creatures.

A persons age really doesn’t matter. Someone who is young can start early and build their career during the college years. Studying to be a veterinarian, biologist, researcher or wildlife consultant are just a few choices. All jobs working with animals offer a gazillion jobs under each header. An older person definately has the ability to attend school, but might opt to be a caretaker or get involved with a nature center or humane society. These types of jobs take a patient worker and an older person who has raised a family is sometimes the best candidate. Rewarding returns are what is in store for anyone choosing to work with animals.

Other thoughts for anyone to ponder would be a career in pet grooming, rehabilitation, zoology or pet photography. Training to be an animal handler or a veterinarians assistant creates a rewarding atmosphere as would working as a dog walker. There is nothing like looking into the eyes of an animal as they radiate love. Do a little research and join a team of people who are very much needed.

Our Children’s Story

May 10th, 2009

OUR CHILDREN’S STORY Randy N. Warner

One we must regrettably share with our children for they most certainly will find out on their own.

PREFACE:

We hope they learn from our foibles stemming from ignorance, apathy and politics. It is, but for our egos, that we have not yet come close to resolving this society’s issues of animal abuse and neglect towards the animals of which we share this planet. The noblest of efforts have little affects when unaccompanied by true results.

The Legacy We Leave Them

We followed the large national groups. For 25 years they promised to solve these problems, if only we would send them money. We did. Nearly $2 Billion each year. In turn, they spent 90 cents from every dollar on high salaries, new cars, luxury items and still ask for more. The ultimate goals were not as important as their individual agendas and egos that keep them in business. Our own apathy was killing all these animals.

We hated other animal protection organizations, never spoke to them, but readily spoke ”about” them. Never shared ideas. For political reasons we were confident it was ”for our own good”./ Therefore we have no comprehensive program to present to the public or bring to the schools. Our noble attempts quelled by politics ignorance and greed. But our egos were left in tact. Now, sadly we must leave it all to you.

Remember these things: Work Together. Do Not separate your ideas. Yours may or may not be better than others. Without communication, how will you know? Take One Step AT A Time. Be organized and focus. For decades we’ve shoved thousands of problems and possible solutions to the public. No unity or clear plan. Too confusing. We looked stupid. We have but few accomplishments.

POLITICS: IT is in every aspect of our lives. It is the largest hurdle to overcome if we hope to save the animals. Don’t let your goals be compromised by ego, emotions, envy or anger like we did. Your egos and feelings may get hurt. BIG DEAL!!! The animals continue to die. Move on. THIS IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE!! But certainly more adult than we could handle. Politics has no place here. It must be taught through humane education in schools.

The animal problems have plagued us for years and we’ve turned a blind eye to the fact it’s OUR problem to solve. Do not allow the large animal protection groups to continue unchecked. Go confidently in the direction that will bring results. don’t be afraid to ”think outside the box”. It scares people. Let them be scared. Humans fear change. They are weak in spirit and ideas. You will lead them in the long run.

Don’t expect too much from humans. They are limited. Their egos are not. You will experience failures. Keep moving forward. Without them you learn nothing. The successes you will have will be monumental. If you set out to solve a problem, do it with integrity, honesty, fortitude and determination. Sorry we didn’t have those qualities. Be smarter than we. Give voice to the animals.

About the Author

Randy Warner has founded a nationwide humane education non profit org that is dedicated to seeing humane education in our nation’s schools. He has also authored a series of handbooks for teachers and animal protection advocates at http://www.21stcenturycares.org/products.htm

Mind Over Matter…

May 6th, 2009

Understanding where horses come from has been a long road for most equestrians. Using that new understanding can dramatically change how one handles, cares for, and trains or rides their horse.

“We treat horses the way others tell us to, as well as the way we were treated as children,” says Gwenyth Browning Jones Santagate, of Douglas Massachusetts. “That usually borders on abuse, even for experienced equestrians. My dad taught me that if I REALLY wanted to know about an animal, then I needed to look at things from its own point of view. I later tried the ‘formal,’ ‘traditional’ methods - and HATED it. When my daughter’s ‘babysitter’ mare was severely abused in our absence, traditional methods of discipline simply didn’t work, so I went back to my ‘feel’ methods to reclaim the mare’s mind.”

Because of this horrific incident, Gwen vowed never to forget “that horses are people, too … just in different bodies. They are kindred spirits with more generous hearts than any human can ever realize.”

In her efforts to reach and educate humans, Gwen is holding a two-session teleseminar that focuses first on understanding the psychological underpinnings of the horse, and in the second session, on what to do with that understanding. The sessions are scheduled for June 22, 2005, and July 6, 2005. There is a fee of $49.95, which includes both sessions, class materials, and some unannounced bonuses.

For more information, or to sign up, individuals should go to http://www.EquineTeleseminar.net.

About the Author

Patricia Reszetylo has been a horse-addict ever since she first met horses in 1978. Visit her at http://www.EquineTeleseminar.net.

Lyme Disease Treatment for Pets

May 6th, 2009

Lyme disease can be treated with antibiotics, because the disease is caused by a bacterium that is introduced to your pet through a bite from a tick carrying the disease.

Antibiotics will be taken for a long period of time and some times and may not be very effective if your pet has had the disease for a long period of time. Sometimes, your veterinarian can switch the antibiotics so see if that may cure the disease. But, if your pet does get bitten again, the disease can reoccur.

So, the best treatment for lyme disease is in the prevention. Ticks can be found in many different areas and are just waiting for the next warm body. Keeping your pets out of thick brush and high grass will help them from getting ticks, but there are many products on the market today that can in fact keep ticks off of your pets or kill these pests if your pet already has ticks.

Bathing your pet or grooming your pet can also help in preventing ticks the time to attach to your pet. After, your pet has been outdoors, comb him completely and check his skin. This can be a long process if you dog or cat has long hair. But, it will be well worth the time.

If you do find a tick on your pet and it is moving around then you will be able to remove it very easily. Be sure to kill the tick. If the tick has attached it is very important it remove it properly. You can use tweezers or your fingernails. Grab the tick close to your pet’s skin and pull straight out very firmly. Do not allow any of the contents from the tick on your skin or your pet’s skin. Lyme disease can be transmitted through a cut on the skin. And yes, humans can also contract lyme disease.

About the Author

Niall Kennedy
http://www.pet-medication-supplies.net
Pet Medication Supplies can help you get the best possible protection for your pet. Advantix, Arthramine, Cosequin, Frontline, Heartgard - find the best deals in pet medication for flea and tick control, arthritis and lyme disease. Upto 50% discount everyday on brand names.

How to Wrap Presents with Doggies in the House

May 3rd, 2009


from David the Dogman



  1. Gather presents, boxes, paper, etc. in middle of living room floor.

  2. Get tape back from puppy.

  3. Remove scissors from older dog’s mouth.

  4. Open box.

  5. Take puppy out of box.

  6. Remove tape from older dog’s mouth.

  7. Take scissors away from puppy.

  8. Put present in box.

  9. Remove present from puppy’s mouth.

  10. Put back in box after removing puppy from box.

  11. Take scissors from older dog & sit on them.

  12. Remove puppy from box & put on lid.

  13. Take tape away from older dog.

  14. Unroll paper.

  15. Take puppy OFF box.

  16. Cut paper being careful not to cut puppy’s foot or nose that is getting in the way as it “helps”.

  17. Let puppy tear remaining paper.

  18. Take puppy off box.

  19. Wrap paper around box.

  20. Remove puppy from box & take wrapping paper from its mouth.

  21. Tell older dog to fetch the tape so he will stop stealing it.

  22. Take scissors away from puppy.

  23. Take tape older dog is holding.

  24. Quickly tape one spot before taking scissors from older dog & sitting on them again.

  25. Fend off puppy trying to steal tape & tape another spot.

  26. Take bow from older dog.

  27. Go get roll of wrapping paper puppy ran off with.

  28. Take scissors from older dog who took them when you got up.

  29. Give pen to older dog to hold so he stops licking your face.

  30. Remove puppy from present & hurriedly slap tape on to hold the paper on.

  31. Take now soggy bow from puppy & tape on since the sticky stuff no longer sticks.

  32. Take pen from older dog, address tag & affix while puppy tries to eat pen.

  33. Grab present before puppy opens it & put it away.

  34. Clean up mess puppy & older dog made playing tug-of-war with remnants of wrapping paper.

  35. Put away rest of wrapping supplies & tell dogs what good helpers they are.


Found on the Internet author unknown

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Brought to you by: World Wide Information Outlet - http://certificate.net/wwio/, your source of FREEWare Content online.

Do you have any problems with your pet? Then why not send your problem to DAVID THE DOGMAN.

David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388.
His web site is located at: http://www.thedogman.net.

David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.


David The Dogman is available for private consultations in your home, for further details telephone; Tel; (95) 2883388

Key secrets to remember in Dog Training

May 3rd, 2009

While training your dog please remember:

Do not punish the dog. Punishment is not a training aid. It does little to foster willingness to learn and achieve. Limit yourself to a firm “NO” and to using your hands to block the dog’s negative actions. Refrain from hitting or physically abusing the dog.

Display extreme levels of patience and persistence - never give up; if you do, you are relinquishing your status as the dominant one. The dog is bound by nature and genetics to test how far he can push you or get away with disobeying you. You must display a stern and stoic attitude and do not pat, praise, or reward the dog if he does not pay attention or refuses to do as you have asked. Only yield once your commands are followed. If you “heel” instead of your “dog” then he will soon know who is the boss.

Be consistent in your training schedule. Always schedule a class at the same time of the day and for a fixed period -your dog will soon recognize that it is the time to learn and will willingly come forward. During training, both coordination and the trainer’s movements have a direct correlation to the dog’s comprehension. So, if commanded “come”, the dog must be gently guided towards the trainer by a helper or by using a leash so that the pet realizes that “come” means that he must go towards the master.

Be repetitive with each learning block until the trick/lesson is mastered. Some lessons will be learnt quickly while others will take a while. The pattern is different for different dogs and varies from case to case.

Use rewards and praise as often as required. Praise should immediately be forthcoming when a dog responds to any command. The pet will associate responding to commands with praise/rewards (treats) and will try and respond quicker to reap his rewards. Once a command/trick has been mastered then the treats can be withdrawn. You will find that obeying a command becomes second nature to your dog.

Keep the lessons simple. To begin with, the lessons should be fairly easy and such that the dog can complete it within two-three actions. As his level of learning increases the lessons could be more complex. Just as our children go, at first to play school, then to kindergarten, and then to the first grade so also in the case of our pets.

Respect the intelligence of your pet and allow him to think -use his mind. Give time to your pet to figure out what is asked of him. Do not try and help him complete the set task. If you do so, the pet will allow you to do the work for him. If you display patience, the dog will realize what you need him to do and he will obey you directions.

Treat the dog as you would a colleague/ student. You must, talk to your dog explain what it is all about. Speaking to the dog while training will ensure that the dog keeps his attention focused on you. He will soon master the different tones used by you to give commands.

Do not plan long sessions -their attention span is short. Therefore, short lessons are learnt better. It is recommended to have short 10-minute sessions repeated 2-3 times a day.

Whether you are a first time dog owner or a seasoned veteran, your learning never stops as far as it comes to training your dog. Each and every dog presents different training challenges, and the more equipped you are to handle these training issues the more likely you are to prevent any permanent and long term future behavioral problems.

If you are serious about your dog, and want the very best for her/him, then you owe it to your best friend to get a copy of this FREE Dog Training Mini-Course. You can still get it from here:

http://www.dogtrainingmastery.com/Free_Dog_Training/dog-obedience-training.htm

About the Author

Ray Coleiro is the author of the popular book “Dog Training Mastery - An Owner’s Manual!” To learn more about his proven Dog Training methods and life’s work, you can visit
http://www.dogtrainingmastery.com/Dog_Training/dog-training.htm
Note: The author grants permission to you to re-print, pulish or broadcast this article so long as it is un-altered and not edited in any way, and that all links remain present and active.

Barking and Destruction

May 2nd, 2009


Dr. Kevin Nunley


USE THE MEDIA–marketing help for biz.


“Do News Releases Work?”

Invariably, when I talk with business people on-line, someone asks that question. Many of us have sent out a press release only to be greeted with silent indifference from the media. But that doesn’t have to be the case. The media needs, must have, craves, can’t do without a steady stream of usable news. YOU are the person that can supply the news they need. And you can get free publicity for your business at the same time.

Even better, you can email your press release to the media. That makes it much cheaper to send a release to lots of media sources

The news release is the time honored method of putting nformation before the media. This is especially true for businesses and organizations. It takes the form of a page or two detailing your message, generally slanted a bit to favor your goals. In its most basic form, the news release has your name and contact number at the top, followed by some points that will interest the media outlet.


You Gotta’ Be Newsworthy!

Make sure your story is something that the reporter will agree is important. Newspapers don’t like it if you send in an ad for your business to be used as a news story. Their attitude is, “Hey, if you want to advertise, call the advertising department and buy and ad.” You have to cloak your message in a story that is newsworthy, a story that readers will find helpful, interesting, simulating, sad, or hopeful.

If your message seems too commercial for your local daily newspaper or TV newscast, try sending your release to a trade publication in your industry. A story that is of little interest to the general pubic will often be welcomed with open arms by a more specialized industry newsletter or e-zine.

The bottom line is this: think like the media, shape your message to fit their likes. Do that and your message has a good chance of being used. Above all, don’t let up. While one media manager may not have the slightest interest in your idea, another will welcome you with open arms. The media needs piles of fresh stories everyday.

Where Do You Find the Addresses for the Media?

It used to be that you had to shuck out a few hundred bucks to buy a media guide on CD-ROM. Now that just about every media entity in the world is on-line, the process of getting accurate addresses is much easier and
cheaper.

Gebbie, a well-known guide, has jumped ahead of the pack and put their addresses and links on a well organized web site (http://www.gebbieinc.com). I recently sent a press release via e-mail to over 1000 of the radio stations Gebbie has listed and hot very good
results.

Remember, bulk mailing your press release to media is not the same as spamming individuals. Media expects to get unsolicited promotional announcements. That’s the business their in.

There are also companies that will send your press release out for you, although I’m not so sure you’ll get better results than the do-it-yourself method. Mostly automated press release services make the job much faster.
The top press release agency in the corporate world is PR Newswire
(http://www.prnewswire.com or 800/832-5522).

PR News Target (http://www.newstarget.com) claims to have cultivated a relationship with thousands of editors covering a variety of industries. I would take that with a grain of salt. When I worked in media we often got calls or cards from PR firms asking if we wanted to get their stuff. We usually said yes because they would sometimes send free hats, shirts, and other trinkets. The press releases often went into the trash. It’s much better if YOU cultivate your own relationship with editors.

Jennifer Howard of American Small Business Association does a fine job of sending to over 5,000 media outlets for $250 .

Also check out Automated Press Releases (http://www.gapent.com/pr). For the nice price of $12.50 per hundred, they’ll send your release to any of
their 7,600 media sources in 37 countries. While you’re at the Automated site, read through their “Pet Peeves of the Media” article.

Some PR firms will write your press release for you. The price usually runs around $200 for a one-pager. (Don’t do it! I’ll write it for you cheaper.)

Here’s a simple example of what a standard press release looks like:

USE THE MEDIA

210 State Street

Anytown, USA

phone: XXX-XXX

Contact: Kevin Nunley

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

DOGS WILL BE HAPPIER THANKS TO UTAH FIRM USE THE MEDIA.

Use the Media founder Kevin Nunley donates 20 cases of dog polish to the Midvale animal shelter.

Midvale, UT: Lost dogs will have a lot less to be worried about this Christmas as local consultant Kevin Nunley has provided for their well being with 20 cases of high grade Amco dog polish. Midvale animal
shelter director, Monica Lewinksy, said, “These will give the dogs exactly what they need to get adopted by families this holiday season.”


Brought to you by: World Wide Information Outlet - http://certificate.net/wwio/, your source of FREEWare Content online.


Dr. Kevin Nunley works with businesses on marketing strategy, copywriting, and web site development. Ask for his FREE marketing report at or (801)253-4536. See all his articles on the Marketing Info Supersite at http://www.DrNunley.com Also check out his Internet Marketing and Media Publicity courses at http://www.SmallBusinessU.com

Iron deficiency in dogs and cats

April 30th, 2009

We have recently seen a number of cases of iron deficiency anaemia, both in cats and dogs.
In iron deficiency, red cells do not develop the normal complement of iron-containing haemoglobin and the cells that form in the bone marrow are small (microcytic, low MCV) and hypochromic (low MCH and MCHC). The process of red cell maturation becomes prolonged so young red cells no longer contain large amounts of RNA and therefore do not appear polychromatic. As a result the anaemia is non- regenerative, with inappropropriately low reticulocyte counts. There is often a marked increase in variation in red cell shape (poikilocytosis) and red cell fragments (schistocytes) are often seen, as above.
In cats, the red cells are often so small that platelets appear larger than red cells and this overlap in sizing can contribute to apparently very high platelet counts as some automated counters include some small red cells in the platelet count.
Iron deficiency anaemia reflects chronic external blood loss, either through the gut associated with bleeding tumours or ulcers or occasionally with severe flea burdens and parasitic blood loss.
Serum iron, iron panels (including serum iron, total iron binding capacity, transferrin and % saturation) and occasionally staining bone marrow for iron, can all be useful in investigating these cases in addition to a full blood count (which must include smear evaluation since not all cases have a low MCV and MCHC). Occult faecal blood testing, after a minimum of three days off all red meat, is useful to check for blood loss in cases where blood loss is not detectable grossly.
While most non-regenerative anaemias have a poorer outlook, iron deficiency responds excellently and quickly to treatment that is aimed at stopping the blood loss and providing oral iron supplementation. Our current crop of iron deficiency anaemia cases all appear to be doing well now that they are on treatment.
For more information on iron deficiency anaemia visit http://www.ctdslab.co.uk

About the Author

Nick graduated from Edinburgh Veterinary School in 1980 with an
Honours degree in Pathological Sciences and in 1982 as a Bachelor
of Veterinary Medicine and Surgery. In 2003 Nick became a diplomate
of the Royal college of Pathologists in veterinary clinical pathology.

How to Tame Wild Kittens

April 26th, 2009

Over the past several years, the wild mother cat who has taken up residence in our barn in rural Wisconsin has given me many opportunities to figure out how to tame wild kittens. The mother cat always hides her kittens very well, and then, when they are big enough to leave the nest and are big enough to eat kitty food, she brings them out and expects me to feed them.

When the wild mother cat brings her kittens out of the nest, it is the first time in their lives they have seen a human being, and they tend to be hissing, spitting bits of fluff that really look as though they mean business. And since they already have teeth and claws, I would rather not push the issue. I also would rather not let them remain wild, living in my barn, having kittens of their own. Six kittens, within a year or two, could turn into 56.

As of early 2005, the wild mother cat has had more than 20 kittens in our barn, and I have managed to tame them and to find homes for most of them (unfortunately, several were lost when the wild momma kitty took them out to teach them how to hunt).

Here are some tips for taming wild kittens:

1. Buy some canned kitty food — In my experience, kittens are always hungry and are always interested in canned kitty food. I have noticed it doesn’t matter what brand, just so long as it has fish in it. The smell of fish seems irresistible to kittens.

2. Let the kittens smell the canned kitty food — Open the can and then try to get as close to them as possible so they can smell the food. Once they get a whiff of it, and this is especially true of younger kittens that are anywhere from four weeks old to a few months old, they will be so interested in the canned kitty food they will forget (somewhat) that you are right next to them.

3. Use a fork (or spoon) to scoop out some of the food and let the kittens eat off the end of the fork (spoon) — This is an important step. Do NOT put a forkful of food down and then back off. From the very first, hold the fork toward the kitten and let the kitten eat off the end of the fork. Stick to your guns and do not give up. If the kitten wants canned kitty food, the kitten MUST eat it off the end of the fork or the spoon. This is the first step in getting the kitten used to being close to you and in growing accustomed to your hand coming closer. This will be useful later on when you are trying to pet the kittens. After the kitten has eaten food off the end of the fork/spoon, THEN you can put a little food down for the kitten to eat on its own.

4. Repeat step 3 every time you offer the kittens some canned food — At first, the kittens are going to be cautious about your hand coming toward them. The fork with the food will help to overcome that resistance. After you have done this a couple of times, the kittens will look forward to eating off the fork and will start to lose their fear of you and your hand.

5. Stay right there while the kittens are eating — After you have put out some canned food for the kittens, stay there and don’t move off. Let them eat with you next to them. This will help teach them to associate human beings with “good things.”

6. Carefully start to pet the kittens — After feeding them a couple of times without trying to pet them, which will begin to teach them that they can trust you, put food out and let the kittens start to eat. Then slowly reach down and pet them a little bit. Continue to sit there while they finish eating.

7. Carefully start to pick up the kittens — After you can successfully put out food and remain there while the kittens eat and can pet them a little bit, try picking up a kitten. If you can, grasp the kitten by the scruff of the neck. This is how mother cats carry their kittens, and when you do this, the kitten will go limp. Hold the kitten against your shoulder and talk softly to it, but don’t say “Hi kitten” or anything starting with an “h” sound. To a kitten, this sounds like a cat hissing, and the kitten will become frightened. Hold the kitten for a minute or so and then, grasping it by the scruff of the neck, set it down. After you have done this several times, the kitten will realize that no harms come to it from being picked up and handled.

Depending upon the age of the kittens and basic personality traits, the whole process, from starting with canned kitty food on the fork to being able to pet them and pick them up, could be accomplished in a few days or it might take a few weeks. Eventually, the kittens will know that people mean good things, and when they see you coming, they will come running to meet you. It has been my experience that cats quickly recognize when a situation is to their advantage, and once the kittens know you are a source of good things to eat and that you mean them no harm, they will want to be friends.

If you have any questions, you are welcome to send me an e-mail at bigpines(at)ruralroute2.com (replace (at) with @)

If you would like to read an article about feeding and caring for orphaned kittens, go to the “articles” section of my website at http://ruralroute2.com — or if you would like to read more stories about cats and kittens from my book, “Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam” (free shipping (!) on copies ordered from the author) — visit http://ruralroute2.com and click on sample chapters.

*******************

About the Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books “Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm)” and “Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam.” You are invited to read sample chapters and to sign up for Rural Route 2 News, the FREE monthly newsletter from Rural Route 2. Visit — http://ruralroute2.com

How To Stop Your Dog From Digging Holes In Your Garden

April 25th, 2009

First, I need to figure out when he is digging. Since I know the dog and his lifestyle, I can rule out several factors such as boredom or puppyhood or gophers, etc…
I noticed that every time he would start digging holes he was in the yard playing with a friend’s dog, unsupervised.
So, I first need to MAKE SURE that it was ACTUALLY MY DOG that was the perpetrator. A quick look at his feet would suggest that it was.
Next, I needed to figure out if he would dig ANY TIME he was left alone in the yard or if it was only when another dog was present.
To figure this out, I simply left the dog in the yard alone with access to the rose garden several times… and came back to find that he had not dug.
So… it stands to reason that the only time my dog is digging in the yard is when there is another dog in the yard. (Who knows why? There could be a million unexplained reasons that only the dog knows. All I need in order to fix the behavior is knowledge of the dog and the circumstances).
Now, I know that to fix any behavior problem I need to make the dog experience a NEGATIVE ASSOCIATION with the actual ACT of doing that behavior. In this case, digging in the garden.
And he needs to experience that same negative association EVERY TIME HE DIGS!
In this case, I must be 100% diligent to never leave Forbes unsupervised in the yard when there is another dog in the yard.
Of course, if he was digging by himself, then I’d need to confine him to a kennel run where he cannot dig when I’m not supervising him. Or if there is another dog visiting then I will need to bring Forbes inside, put him in the kennel run, or use the presence of the other dog as a “set up.”
The next step is to make sure that he associates that negative (correction) just as he starts to dig.
There are two ways I can do this: The Lazy Man’s Way and the Old Fashioned Way. Both methods are based on the same principle.
The Old Fashioned Way to make sure that the dog gets a motivational negative association when he digs is to:
Step 1.) Leave a pinch collar and tab (one foot leash) on the dog when he’s outside in the yard with another dog.
Step 2.) Bury hardware mesh or chicken wire in the spot where he’s been digging. The chicken wire should be buried two to three inches below the surface. Dogs don’t like scraping their paws against this stuff. So, right off the bat you’ve got an immediate negative association.
Step 3.) Spy on him and just wait until he start to dig.
Step 4.) As soon as he begins to dig, yell “No No No!” as you run outside and give the dog a correction. As long as you continue to say “No no no” as you run to the dog, the dog WILL still associate the correction with the behavior.
Step 5.) Be 100% consistent until you are 100% sure that the dog isn’t digging any more.
The Lazy Man’s Way to fix this problem behavior is to use a remote electronic collar (e-collar). Everything else remains the same. (Click on the link above to read about my recommendations for buying a remote electronic training collar).
When using the e-collar for this behavior, I’d turn the setting up to the high level. Your goal is to create absolute avoidance to this behavior (digging in the garden). And you want him to think that the dirt just jumped up and bit him! Usually if you correct the dog with the electronic collar for this type of behavior, you’ve only got to do it twice before the dog decides that it’s in his best interest to leave your garden alone.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below):
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq